Pinar del Rey - the King's Forest

Pinar del Rey in early May

This is just a glimpse of what the forests that stretched from the edges of the Alcornocales down to the Bay of Gibraltar (or la Bahia de Algeciras, depending on what side of the border you happen to originate) might once have looked like.  There are just pockets of these woods left now, and this one, on the edge of San Roque happens to be one of my favourite spots for a picnic and a gentle walk on a Sunday afternoon. Covering an area of over 330 hectares, it provides peace, tranquility, the chance to breathe clean air that is tinged with the scent of the pines instead of burned diesel, or that hums with the chirruping of crickets instead of high-speed traffic.  Pinar del Rey is like the lungs of the Campo de Gibraltar, and one of the few places around here where you can breathe deeply and smell earth and trees and flowers.  I love it.

The woods date back to 1800, when the Spanish King Fernando planted the forest of pine trees and cork oaks to supply much-needed wood for the Spanish Navy, in those days, still a naval force to be reckoned with.  After the Battle of Trafalgar, the Spanish Navy found itself in a state of crisis and demand for the wood plummeted.  Which is just as well, because we have been lucky enough to have been left with a jewel of nature on our very doorsteps.

When I visited earlier this year, there were groups of school children from the nearby San Roque, taking lessons in the open air, and learning to identify the different trees and plants.  I tagged along a little way behind to listen and take the edge off my ignorance but stopped short at hugging los alcornoques.  Great way for kids to learn though.

To an utter layperson in terms of nature, as I am, it appears perfect - an area with seating and ready-built barbies for family gatherings which encourage kids to enjoy open spaces; a variety of pathways so you can walk the area with varying degrees of distance and difficulties, and there is what in the UK we used to call a "trim trail" which are regular spots where the fitter amongst us pause in their rambling to carry out more intense exercise. Luckily for me there is usually an old tree stump nearby where I can watch from a safe distance until we all move forward again.  There's a Nature Centre with lots of useful information, especially if you really want to learn a bit about the nature that surrounds you.  The more demanding routes are in the Northern part of the park.  Perhaps I will build up gently towards those over the next few months.  Yes, I know it's winter, but provided there's not a deluge, I'd rather be plodding around the hills in 12 degrees than panting about in 32.